Marquise rings are truly one of a kind. Their distinct shape is often compared to a boat or an eye, and they stand out from any other diamonds you will find. Their shape has long been a symbol of elegance and royalty. When purchasing a marquise ring, you want to ensure that you obtain one that understands the ring’s character and history. This guide is meant to help navigate the buying process of a marquise ring. Having a complete understanding of the marquise cut will help you make a better purchase. This guide is for those who want to understand everything about the purchased marquise ring so they can be confident they will enjoy it for years to come.
Table of Contents
- History of the Marquise Cut
- The Details of the Marquise Cut
- The Sparkle of Marquise Diamonds
- Best Settings for Marquise Diamonds
- Marquise Length-to-Width Ratios
- Pros and Cons of Marquise Diamonds
- How to Style Your Marquise Ring
A Cut Steeped in History: The Origins of the Marquise
Every piece of jewelry has a story to tell. The Marquise cut, for example, has a story that can be told through a glimmer and sparkle. The Marquise cut goes back to the 18th century in France during the reign of King Louis XV. The King, in his love for a diamond, wanted to find a cut for a diamond that would replicate the shape of the lips of his mistress, Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, the Marquise de Pompadour. The King wanted to cut a diamond to reflect the lovely shape of the mistress’s lips, so the cut was therefore referred to as the Marquise cut, in honor of one of the most beautiful and powerful women in history.
While its romantic stories may be popular, the most likely reason the Marquise evolved into its elongated, pointed form is older cuts like the navette (French for “little boat”). Regardless of origin, its association with prestige, attraction, and refinement has remained. To wear a marquise is to wear a historically rich, romantic, and powerful symbol. It is a cut for those who appreciate stories, aren’t afraid to draw attention, and resonate with a legacy of bold sophistication. Choosing this style means embracing a historical legacy, not just a ring.
2. The Anatomy of Elegance: The Marquise Cut
To appreciate a marquise ring, you need to understand its construction. The Marquise has an elongated form, two pointed ends (called gussets), and is considered a fancy shape diamond, unlike a round brilliant, which is just considered a standard round.
The Outline:
Its most telling characteristic is a stunning, elliptical, sharply pointed silhouette. This dramatic profile of the stone will make it appear larger per carat than most other cuts.
The Facets:
Like a round brilliant diamond, a well-cut marquise diamond will have 58 facets. The facets will be arranged to maximize fire and brilliance. The faceting pattern is what makes the stone shine with light, practically dancing with it.
The Bow Tie Effect:
This is a significant feature. Because of its elongated shape, a marquise diamond will almost always exhibit a dark pattern across its center resembling a bow tie. An expert cutter reduces this, but a faint, symmetrical bow tie is normal. A strong, dark bow tie can take away from the charm of a diamond.
The Points:
The two tips are the most sensitive spots of the stone. They need to be safeguarded, and this is why the setting for a marquise ring is so crucial. This is a subject we will discuss shortly.
When looking at a prospective marquise ring, check for symmetry. Both halves of the diamond must be mirror images of one another. The points must be sharp and aligned, and the belly’s curves must be even.
3. The Brilliance Factor: The Sparkle of the Marquise Rings
People often think fancy-shaped diamonds are less sparkly than standard round ones. While the Round Brilliant is designed to be the most sparkly, even a moderate Marquise is a sparkly diamond on its own. Its length enables it to capture and reflect light.
The brilliance of your marquise ring is dependent on its cut quality. Since the fancy shapes lack an Ideal cut grade from labs such as GIA, you’re dependent upon the grader’s assessment (Excellent, Very Good, Good, etc.), and, most importantly, your own eyes.
Look for Life:
An exceptional marquise diamond is characterized by an interior glow of brilliance and a dazzling array of colors. It is best when the center is neither dark nor glassy.
Window Testing:
Set the marquise ring on a piece of literature. If you can read the words through it, the cut is too shallow and is letting light through. If the stone is well cut, the text should appear distorted.
The Illusion of Size:
It is a well-known and impressive effect of a marquise ring. Because of its design, a 1-carat1-carat marquise diamond will often appear larger than a 1-carat1-carat round diamond. Visually, it is a better value for the money spent.
4. Setting the Stage: Choosing an Ideal Setting for Your Marquise Diamond
The setting of the diamond is much more than a mere holder. It’s a frame that can protect the diamond and make a style statement. For a marquise diamond, the setting’s style is pivotal for both security and aesthetics.
The V-Tip or Claw Prong:
Essential. The tips of the marquise diamonds are at risk of getting chipped. A properly crafted marquise setting will always have V-tip prongs (or small, sturdy tip claw prongs) that cover and protect the points. This is the most important aspect for the durability and longevity of your marquise diamond ring.
Setting options:
Solitaire:
A classic choice. A solitaire ring setting allows the marquise diamond to shine with its unique shape, creating a clean, simple design. A 6-prong setting (with V-tips at the points) rings true to the classic look.
Halo:
Adding small diamonds to a setting that surrounds the marquise diamond creates a jaw-dropping and vintage look. The small diamond halo set provides an extra layer of security for the middle stone by covering the girdle and enhancing the overall diamond, making the center stone more sparkly and larger.
Three-Stone:
Adding two additional diamonds to the band beside the marquise diamond (like trapezoids, trilliants, or rounds) to create a more sophisticated look. This design style symbolizes the past, present, and future, making it a great choice for an engagement ring.
East-West Setting:
A modern, fashion-forward take. Instead of pointing up or down, the marquise diamond is set horizontally, creating a unique, architectural look. This marquise ring orientation is increasingly popular.
The metal you choose also plays a role. White metals enhance the diamond’s brightness and create a modern feel. Warm metals add a vintage, romantic feel.
5. The Art of Proportion: Navigating Length-to-Width Ratios
This is where preference comes into play. The length-to-width ratio of a marquise diamond dramatically alters its appearance. It’s the ratio of a stone’s length to its width.
A Classic Ratio (1.75 to 2.15):
This is the look of classic perfection, exquisitely elongated and not extreme. It’s a perfect compromise of bold shape, wearability, and a beautiful proportion.
A Slender, Elongated Look (2.20 and above):
A higher ratio creates a more dramatic, finger-elongating effect. It looks incredibly sleek and modern. However, more elongated stones can tend to bow.
A Fuller, Rounded Look (1.60 to 1.70):
A lower rim makes the Marquise appear slightly softer and more oval, and the look can feel more classic, especially compared to edgier styles.
There is no “right answer.” The best ratio to go for is the one that you lean towards most. In person, feel free to try on multiple marquise ring styles. You may like the way a short, wide marquise ring feels on your hand compared to a long, slender one. The ratio will fundamentally affect the ring’s likability.
6. The Practical Side: The Pros and Cons
Let’s look at some practical aspects of owning this beautiful cut.
Pros:
- Size Illusion: The cut always appears a little larger than most cuts of the same carat weight.
- Elongates the Finger: The cut is long vertically, creating a nice effect on your hand, which makes it look slimmer and more flattering.
- Unique and Distinctive: When compared to circular and square princess cuts, this shape is more out of the ordinary, which will draw more attention to your ring.
- Historical & Romantic Appeal: The look has a royal, classic, historical feel.
- Versatile Styling: You can dress your finger up to the max with a halo ring or keep it more simple with a solitaire one.
Cons & Considerations:
- Point Vulnerability: The tips that protect the V-prongs need to be maintained more often.
- The Bow-Tie: The Marquise should be specifically selected to ensure the bow-tie effect is neither too distracting nor too minimal.
- To Get It Right First Time – Good symmetry is vital with a cut like this.
- Finding the Right Craftsperson: Not every jeweler has the same skill level when it comes to securely setting a marquise diamond. Choose an artisan with a great reputation.
7. Styling your Marquise Ring: From Solitaire to Stack
Your marquise ring is a statement, but how do you integrate it into your daily wardrobe?
The Solo Act:
A marquise solitaire is powerful enough to stand alone. It pairs effortlessly with everything from casual jeans to a formal gown.
The Wedding Band Dilemma:
The pointed ends can make finding a flush-fitting wedding band tricky. Here are some options:
- A Notched Band: A band with a small dip or notch that curves around the point of the marquise ring.
- A Gap: A small, stylish gap between the rings can be a great look.
- A Custom Contoured Band: A band that is specially made to fit the exact curve of your engagement ring is another great solution.
Stacking for Impact:
Don’t be afraid to stack! A marquise ring looks phenomenal with a mix of thinner, simpler bands. For a modern, textured look, try a plain gold band with an eternity band. The most important thing is to let the marquise ring be the star.
In summary, choosing a marquise ring is an elegant experience. It requires a cut and symmetry, knowledge of the important enclosing setting, and an appreciation of your personal style. The reward is jewelry as special as you. It is a combination of historical romance, majestic sparkle, and prominence. Following the seven points, you will not just find a ring, but a marquise ring; a one-of-a-kind treasure. It will tell a story as it rests on your hand, and it will last a lifetime.
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